he outfits on the Umsha by Uzma Babar website have glorious names. White Whisper. Woodland Gray. Snowball. Crystal Pink. You’d think you’ve stumbled into a fairytale. Then you see the actual designs and struggle to brief for a nanosecond. Are these clothes for real?
Bridals in Pakistan have always been the centerpiece of any wedding. Any Pakistani dulhan worth her weight in gold will tell you how carefully she curated her look, from makeup artist to designer, to tailor, to the delicate yellow dupatta on her head at the mayun. And it’s really not just brides; bridesmaids and wedding guests have come around to creating articulate looks for wedding events.
Your jam may not include elaborate embroideries and embellishment, and you may just want a well-cut, minimal but formal ensemble. That’s fine. Designer Uzma Babar states that minimal silhouettes are completely her jam, though her clients may be on a different page.
“People opt for more flowy silhouettes rather than the basic straight cut shirts with pants,” says Babar of formal wear. “Cuts and techniques are very important. People are more aware of what to wear and the fast-changing trends in fashion. Because of technological advancement there are no borders anymore; a trend starts somewhere in Europe within a week it’s trending in Pakistan as well.”
Because your typical consumer of bridal and wedding wear now has access to visuals of what’s in style, and how to put outfits together, they are more discerning than ever. Brides too, even when taking the traditional route will want a unique spin to make the look their own. Put that together with how the shaadi cycle itself has evolved, and designers will find themselves with clients who want very specific touches to their outfit-of-the-day.
“How people see and wear bridals has changed tremendously because of wedding event trends changing. There are more intimate, small events, because of this, brides mostly opt for designs that are easy to carry and are hassle-free,” Babar explains. As someone who has been doing this for a long time, she has seen bridal style evolve over time.
“Cuts and techniques are very important. People are more aware of what to wear and of the fast-changing trends in fashion. Because of technological advancement there are no borders anymore; a trend starts somewhere in Europe within a week it’s trending in Pakistan as well.” – Uzma Babar
“Brides look for a more contemporary look rather than traditional,” she says. “It was long ago when we used to see brides mostly in reds. Now they like to create something unique in terms of colors, designs, and more which also helps us to stay sharp, creative, and motivated to come up with something new every time.
“It’s more about fabric manipulation, new techniques, and designs rather than just work on the outfit now.”
Not all aspiring brides can afford the dream outfit though. Uzma Babar is not averse to the idea of creating a line for the bride on a budget.
“I believe nothing is impossible in this world,” she says. “Once you have a clear vision and the will to do it, you can do anything. All you need is some courage to take the first step.
“I can’t say for sure if the experiment would be profitable, but as a business person, one can always work things out and come up with strategies that are both beneficial for the business and client.”
While the fashion industry banks on established clients and regular sales, like anyone else, the past two years has affected it too. “I’d be lying if I say the recession didn’t hit us hard,” says Babar. “Every business was impacted and so was mine but by the grace of God we managed.
“Our overheads were the same as before as we didn’t lay off any of our employees. I believe it’s their prayers that helped us through those times and I’m grateful for them. In the end, it’s all about sticking together as one and working to achieve your goals and that’s what we did at Umsha.”
Uzma Babar’s quick tips to wedding wear
If on a budget, or short on time: “Go for solids. A pure raw silk outfit with a heavy dupatta and chunky earrings is always on point.”
Confused about the silhouette to embrace for wedding season? “My most favorite out of all for formals is a classic straight shirt with a pair of ajaar.”
Simply don’t know where to start? “For bridals, I believe no one can go wrong with a classic farshi and a straight red shirt paired with a traditional, fully hand-worked dupatta.”
